Kota Bharu revisited after a lapse of 26 years

I was reading Think and Grow Rich by Napoleon Hill when the announcement that the plane would be touching down followed by the clicking sounds of the mandatory seatbelts fastening.

As I look out of the airplane windows, a sudden thought came to mind as how the city I last visited 26 years ago would have transformed. Excitement filled my mind amidst right as I walked across the tarmac to the terminal building.

My subconscious mind suddenly reminded me of Mr Mike, my graceful friend I had met 2 months ago whom had waited patiently with his 12 year old son outside the arrival hall. Was glad to see this slightly crew cut well built gentleman waving at me and that was the first indication of the Kelantanese warmth with me exchanging hand wave indicating my flight was delayed.

As I head next to the luggage belt, “Welcome to Kelantan Darul Naim” greeted me and it sets the mood that I would enjoy Kota Bharu (KB). My trip here is purely business but the sight of smiling and happy faces somehow created the “home away from home” feeling in me.

Mike drove me through the streets of KB and it was a welcome sight that the roads are well maintained. The next thing I realized was the bustling daily life of KB although the streets along gets a little empty after 5:30pm but Mike reassured me that it’s busy in few other parts of KB.

“I’ll pick you up for dinner at 7pm” says Mike, which reflects his typical self of a down to earth Kelantanese Chinese businessman in an opposition controlled state in Peninsular Malaysia. Despite the news circulated in the mass media of the state in backwaters, I chose to defer after only few hours in this Cek Mek Molek state. Kak Zah came out strongly and declared “Hey, you should go and taste the nightlife of KB!” (in her Kelantanese dialect)

Mike was late but he made up for the lovely Thai dinner at Chengmai Restaurant on the fringe of the Islamic City of KB (Kota Bharu Bandaraya Islam). The Tomyam (asked for less spicy), Black Pepper Prawn and Assam Fish were a mouth watering experience as his 12 year old starts enjoying his meal.

What reflects upon me was the absence of tension between the ethnic groups in this state and friendship is treasured despite the state Government declaring Islamic City and emphasized on Islamic laws.

Having a typical Chinese looking face, I walked around the city but everywhere I went; I was greeted with smiling faces and moving around with fear. Despite running the State with a tight financial budget, my judgement that this state has much to offer to tourists with more marketing promotion.

Slight liberalism had come into state administration judging from the dressing and movement of the people from both sexes while maintaining Islamic laws as a base. The sight of the younger generation ladies moving around in t-shirts, jeans and with the pre-requisite “selendang” covering their heads set the motion that the new generation of PAS leaders are relaxing the rule a little.

Kelantan today had changed despite the hardliners demand for Hudud laws to be imposed in the Islamic state. For non-Muslims, KB still offers Chinese delicacies along the streets of Jalan Kebun Sultan which is within the city centre and perhaps the busiest street.

Bars selling liquor to non-Muslims only are allowed but its existence is discrete and non-visible as most of these outlets are slightly away from the main streets. Yet, this proves the balancing act of the Kelantanese State Government in accommodating the needs for the non-Muslims while truth behold, Golok (a southern town of Thailand) at the border where lots of entertainment and booze are available, is a mere 40-45 minutes away by road from KB.

Crossing the Golok river by small sampans (boats) illegally is another option but not advisable and yet we see many risk takers plying this mode daily fully aware of the dangers lurking. More interestingly, standing on the bridge where the immigration is, one could see the rampant river crossing acts clearly.

Golok is one of the town which are tainted with Muslim insurgents bomb acts and despite the potential danger, we see a steady stream of people of both nationalities crossing the border everyday with some Malaysians chose to stay in Golok come Thursday and Friday nights for entertainment in popular nightspots as Riviera Hotel nightclub.

Kota Bharu city itself is quite a sight for travelers with beaches, buildings with interesting architecture leading back to the Sultanate days with some of the buildings e.g Istana Balai Besar, Istana Jahar, World War Two Memorial Museum etc. brings back that nostalgic feeling.

A visit to Tambatan DiRaja allows a view of the murky waters of Sungai Kelantan and floating houses.

A World War II plane propeller which forms part of the exhibit at the World War II Museum/Memorial in Kota Bharu where the Japanese landed for the invasion of Malaya on December 10, 1941. The War Museum occupies the oldest brick building in Kelantan, dating back to 1912.

Jeti Tambatan DiRaja, provides a scenic view of Sungai Kelantan and provides access to a 20 minute river boat crossing to Kampung Laut, Tumpat.

The Customs boat moored along Sungai Kelantan next to Tambatan Di-Raja.

Bank Pitis (Pitis Bank) ~ was built during the Sultanate era of Sultan Muhammaad III (Long Kundur bun Sultan Ahmad 1889-1890). Located within the perimeter of Istana Balai Besar, this building was used to store monies/funds for the Kelantanese state. Measured at 12 X 12 feet, the door is made of Chengal wood with still reinforced metal locks.

The Chinese Business Chamber in Kota Bharu represents the Chinese community in the state and evident of business for Chinese based business is still alive.

The river boat houses along Sungai Kelantan.

Amidst the new buildings in Kota Bharu, this old wooden structure stood the test of times and development.