Sunday, July 25, 2010

on the Melaka Heritage Trail (in pictures) - part I

Melaka Heritage Trail?

I had never thought about this heritage trail since I was born and school in this historic city filled with history, great food and great people. So when I was informed that we are suppose to play host to visitors from Australia, I was thinking it's host as usual but I had missed the fact that this time it's in Melaka and not Kuala Lumpur.

Rising early on Sunday morning, some light breakfast before heading to the hotel to pick our guests for the tour of the attractions of Melaka with a special request to taste the chicken rice ball and cendol of Melaka.

So it was an impromptu decision to park the car and start our heritage trail on foot from Dataran Pahlawan as we make our way out from the complex and head towards the Park amidst dark skies looming overhead. Nevertheless, we carried on believing that the earlier downpour would cool the environment and make it conducive for walking around.

So off we go along Jalan Kota where the remnants of Bastion Middleburg (left pic) became our first stop. Though nothing much but the it was still a piece of history which had withstood the test of time and development which gives us hope that the future generations can still treasure this city rich in history and aptly referred as "Where It All Began".

The former Hongkong and Shanghai Bank building looks resplendent in white and another testimony of the British rule of Malaysia (then known as Malaya). The building have now been declared as a national heritage and rightfully preserved as a living history.

This building was also where, as I was told, the workplace of my grandfather and uncle which they take great pride when working in the banks those days was a most sought after employment during the British rule.

Most Babas naturally went into the banking industry to continue where the forefathers had left.


Time to move on as we cross the road to make our way towards the replica of the Melaka Sultanate water mill along Jalan Quayside located along the Melaka river banks leading towards the Straits of Melaka.

This stretch of road and area used to be the port or harbour where godowns dominate the area to provide storage for the goods imported and transported through the port. Goods barter trade between Melaka and Indonesia traders are a common feature then.

Used to be the sight of trading boats along the river banks have now changed to river cruise boats plying the Melaka River, taking passengers up stream to enjoy great sights of Melaka of the past and present.

This area have been promised with much more development and it would be great to be able to see the luxury hotel, Casa Del Rio being constructed across the river. Swamp tree stumps (bakau) and coal (arang) brought in from Sumatera Indonesia used to be stored in the godowns of the hotel site but nothing of that history can be seen today.

One thing for certain is that the water along the river looks much better as compared many years before this due to pollution and it's something which Malaccans look forward to.

Next stop in Dataran Quayside is the re-constructed Bastion Middleburg which was accidentally found during the initial construction of Menara Taming Sari. The findings had been a revelation to historians and people of Melaka who now believe that there are many more history beneath the buildings along the river banks which can be unearth as documented in the history journals.

It's a commendable effort by the Government to re-construct part of the fort which stretches till A'Famosa fort where cost and logistics have become a major factor to further continuation of the find.

As we see it, the Bastion serves as a strategic defence fort to prevent attacks from across the Melaka River which is now linked by the Clock Tower bridge. Cannons adorned the Bastion as an memory that battles were fought at that location which justifies the armoury placed on the Bastion.

Across the river is the old Harpers building which have now been converted into a restaurant of the original building name with a scenic view overlooking the Melaka River.

The fact that there are no further barriers between the Harper building and water from the Melaka River, it goes to show another olden days architecture marvel that could withstood the years and remain standing solidly on the banks.

Water monitor lizards are a common sight in the Melaka River banks which are conducive for its habitat, feeding on fish, bird, rodent and even rubbish! We saw two on that particular day and it was simply shocking to see someone throwing rocks at the two cold blooded.

With the Unesco World Heritage City status, the living history museum within the declared heritage zone is poise for better days and have seen the benefits of securing such status for worldwide recognition as a prime tourist destination.

Melaka city is separated by the Melaka River and connected by 4 main bridges namely Jambatan Chan Koon Cheng (Kampung Pantai), Jambatan Hang Tuah, Jalan Tun Mutahir (beside Spice Garden) and the Clock Tower Bridge (Jambatan Tan Kim Seng).

The Clock Tower and Hang Tuah bridges are the 2 important bridges and heavily used but today, the former have been reduced to vehicles getting into Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Street), Jonker Street (Jalan Hang Jebat) and Jalan Tukang Emas tourist zones.


The areas turn into a fairyland at night where all along the river banks are lighted and the many cafes lining up along the Riverside Walk lends the air of festivity. We can't deny that the "festivities" happens each weekend where visitors from outside Melaka throng into this quaint little historic city to savour the history, food, entertainment and to many, shopping.

With a rich history, its position as a world destination can never be denied and have since been attracting visitors worldwide. Staying overnite in Melaka is sufficient note than a decade ago but not during the present. The many attractions are able to justify a longer stay not just the tourist attractions but to taste the many local authentic food of Melaka.

Our next stop is the famed red color Stadhuys building, a Dutch legacy which was once the official residence of the Dutch Governor built between 1641 and 1660. These buildings are believed to be the oldest Dutch buildingsin the East.

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